Pemanfaatan Surfaktan pada Proses Pemordanan Kain Kapas dan Sutera yang Dicelup dengan Zat Warna Alam

Wulan Safrihatini Atikah, Ikhwanul Muslim, Rahadian Noor Madani

Abstract


Proses pencelupan dengan pewarna alami memiliki kekurangan diantaranya tahan luntur warna yang kurang baik. Untuk mengatasi hal tersebut dibutuhkan proses pemordanan. Proses pemordanan konvensional sering menggunakan garam logam yang kurang ramah terhadap lingkungan sehingga pada penelitian ini akan dilakukan proses pemordanan menggunakan surfaktan sebagai zat mordan. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mengetahui pengaruh surfaktan pada proses pemordanan kain sutra dan kapas yang dicelup dengan ekstrak zat warna Cocos nucifera L terhadap karakteristik warna dan tahan luntur warna. Tahapan Percobaan yang dilakukan yaitu : pembuatan zat warna alam dari sabut kelapa, persiapan penyempurnaan kain kapas dan sutera, mordanting dengan surfaktan sebagai pembanding akan digunakan garam logam yaitu tawas. Hasil evaluasi memperlihatkan bahwa surfaktan kationik berpotensi menggantikan zat mordan dari garam logam. Kain kapas dengan konsentrasi surfaktan kationik sebanyak 9 g/L dan sutera sebanyak 5 g/L menghasilkan nilai ketuaan warna paling besar dengan arah warna menuju brownish dengan nilai ketahanan luntur warna baik.

Kata kunci: pemordanan; surfaktan; sabut kelapa; pencelupan; tawas

Abstract

The dyeing process with natural dyes has disadvantages including poor color fastness. To overcome this problem, mordanting process is needed. The conventional mordanting often uses metal salts that are less friendly to the environment, so that in this study mordanting process will be carried out using a surfactant as a mordant substances. This study aims to determine the effect of surfactants on the mordanting process of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with cocos nucifera L, dye extract on color charecteristics and color fastness. Experimental stages carried out are making natural dyes from coconut coir, preparation of cotton and silk fabrics enhancements, mordanting with surfactants as a comparison, metal salts, namely alum.  The evaluation results show that cationic surfactants have the potential to replace metal salts mordant. Cotton fabric with a cationic surfactant concentration of 9 g/L and silk with  5 g/L  produced the greatest color depth value with a color direction toward brownish with good color fastness.

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